Trip to Thailand, Laos & Vietnam: Back in Hanoi

After four wonderful days upcountry and another train ride on the hard beds it was back to Hanoi for one day before heading off to Vientiane, Laos. My hotel again was a really nice one on my favorite Ma May Street in the Old Quarter. It had a computer in each room as well as cable TV.

And a nice fruit selection every day, free water and a refrigerator.

But when I stayed in another room before leaving for Sapa a mouse ate some of my banana...And took a good bite out of my tapioca pudding too...right through the plastic. It is hard for me to blame the hotel for this. It was super spotless. It is a crowded section and the mouse could have come in from anywhere. I had no problem in the next room.

My room had one of the most amazing showers I have ever seen ...with a glass front and music and the water whatever temperature you like.

I don't understand these sinks...which I know are all the rage. I am finding them in hotels everywhere now.

These quilts are made by women in small villages north of Ho Chi Minh City. They have formed cooperatives and sit and make these quilts...all by hand. The money they generate helps support their families and put their children through school.

The quilt on the left is made from recycled clothing.

Trip to Thailand, Laos and Vietnam: The Sunday Bac Ha Market

On Sunday I had an early breakfast, checked out of the hotel and took a van to Bac Ha and the famous Sunday market before taking the train back to Hanoi. After a beautiful trip down the mountain we stopped at a travel agency near the train station in Lao Cai to drop off our bags. Then we were off up another mountain road to Bac Ha. On the way we were stopped by police to be sure our van didn't have any illegal Chinese immigrants. China was right across the river.

The Bac Ha Market is a magnet for the local hill tribe people, above all the exotically attired Flower Hmong, and makes a technicolor dream for photographers.

Flower Hmong women wear several layers of dazzling clothing. These include an elaborate collar-cum shawl that's pinned at the neck and an apron style garment;both are made of tightly woven strips of fabric, often with a frilly edge. Highly ornate cuffs and ankle fabrics are often part of the costume as is a checked headscarf (often lime green or electric pink)

A Temple near the market.

Sugar cane.

I rarely eat meat in Asia.

Skirts were often for sale as were aprons.

A balloon seller in the market.

You had to watch out for the occasional water buffalo.

And, of course, they tried for a few last minute sales when you got ready to leave.

On our way back to the train station we had to stop and look at China across the river.

Market Day in Sapa

Back in town Saturday was market day. The market was busy on other days but Saturday grew large crowds from the surrounding areas. The steps of the main market.

Much of the activity centered at the park area up the hill near the church.

Vendors set up their wares all over the paved area.

A spice shop in the main section.

The vendors under the blue tarps were there every day.
Statue in the park above the vending area.
The street in front of the church.
After being chased by vendors all over town I retreated to a table area above the church which wasn't being used because of the mist. A group followed me of course. Here they are clustering around.
Some of what they were showing me. I bought the piece on the right.

After awhile i fled further afield into a closed cafe to no avail. They came and stood outside the window. (Did I mention they are aggressive?)

Sa Pa District is located in Lao Cai Province, north-west Vietnam, and 250 miles north-west of Hanoi, close to the border with China. The Hoang Lien Son range of mountains dominates the district, which is at the eastern extremity of the Himalayas. This range includes Vietnam's highest mountain, Fan Si Pan, at a height of 3142m above sea level. The town of Sa Pa lies at an altitude of about 1600 m. The climate is moderate and rainy in summer (May—August), and foggy and cold with occasional snowfalls in winter.


View on the mountains from downtown SapaSa Pa is a quiet mountain town and home to a great diversity of ethnic minority peoples. The total population of 36,000 consists mostly of minority groups. Besides the Kinh (Viet) people (15%) there are mainly 5 ethnic groups in Sapa: Hmong 52%, Dao 25%, Tay 5%, Giay 2% and a small number of Xa Pho. Approximately 7,000 live in Sapa, the other 36,000 being scattered in small communes throughout the district.


Terraced fields in Sa PaMost of the ethnic minority people work their land on sloping terraces since the vast majority of the land is mountainous. Their staple foods are rice and corn. Rice, by its very nature of being a labour intensive crop, makes the daily fight for survival paramount. The unique climate in Sapa has a major influence on the ethnic minorities who live in the area. With sub-tropical summers, temperate winters and 160 days of mist annually, the influence on agricultural yields and health related issues are significant.

The minority people can only yield one crop of rice annually, which leads to food shortfalls in many communes at specific times. This shortage of food contributes to malnutrition and other related health problems. The climatic conditions also contribute to many health issues including coughs, colds, and bronchial and respiratory problems that are commonplace throughout the community.

The geographical location of the area makes it a truly unique place for many interesting plants and animals, allowing it to support many inhabitants. Many very rare or even endemic species have been recorded in the region.

Trip to Thailand, Laos & Vietnam: The Sapa Trek #4

In the afternoon we were off to another section near Sapa.

This was the area where my guide May lived and I was lucky enough to visit her aunt's house where we found three of her relatives seated around a small fire inside. The women in the valley travel long distances to the mountains to gather wood for these fires.

One of her relatives has just finished building a new house which includes rooms for homestay tourists.

Orchids growing on the roof in back.

A group of women gathered at a nearby house.

A healthcare clinic being constructed in the distance with the municipal building behind it. Health care is free for this group.

Local women busy sewing as they wait for the next tourist group to appear.

When a group arrives it is hard for them to even leave their van given the persistance of the saleswomen.